Spotlight On: Brunello Cucinelli

In 2007, while attending a conference in Cannes, my luggage got misplaced by the airline during a layover in Paris. Consequently, I found myself needing to purchase a new set of clothes for the next three days. Fortunately, I stumbled upon a store where my attention was immediately captured by a stylish older gentleman. He was sporting chino shorts, a jacket with elbow pads, and a light blue shirt. Intrigued, I approached him and explained my predicament. It was then that he offered me some advice: “Instead of wearing a suit, strive for elegance and sophistication.” I must confess, he convinced me with the image he portrayed. The result exceeded my expectations, and I remained a loyal customer of the brand up to 2020.

Brunello Cucinelli is an Italian luxury fashion brand historically known for its cashmere sweaters. The brand started from humble origins that contrast sharply with the elegance it embodies today. Born into a rustic setting, Castel Rigone, Cucinelli embarked on a fashion journey in 1978 with a mere $550. Cucinelli’s view of luxury as a manifestation of scarcity steered him to manufacture premium cashmere in limited amounts, securing his brand’s reputation as a standard of unparalleled quality and style.

In 1985, Cucinelli made an unconventional move. Instead of outsourcing to low-cost labor regions, he transplanted his business to Solomeo, a quaint hamlet in Italy’s Umbria region steeped in history. With a vision to refurbish the hamlet’s antiquated architecture and invest in communal well-being, it represented a new blueprint for harmonizing commercial enterprise with social responsibility.

His distinctive business model, aptly named “humanistic capitalism,” emphasizes providing employees with a work atmosphere that cultivates dignity and respect, alongside above-average wages. This human-centric approach extends beyond his workforce, inspiring a commitment to channel 20% of profits into his foundation to back cultural and philosophical endeavors.

If you are lucky enough to visit Solomeo and the Cucinelli offices, you will encounter staff that are extremely friendly, service-orientated, with a genuine interest in their customers. They were very accommodating to me when I visited, to the point that I was invited to their staff restaurant to have lunch with them – a true joy as a fan of the brand – and an amazing experience.

Some of the more obscure aspects of Cucinelli and his brand add an extra layer of intrigue. A passionate chess player, Cucinelli has established a chess academy in Solomeo, regarding the strategic game as a metaphor for his business acumen. He is also a philosophical enthusiast, regularly citing philosophers in conversation and offering philosophy lessons to his staff.

Cucinelli has a unique “two-button rule” in men’s fashion. The second button of a men’s jacket must always be left undone. According to him, it’s not just a style statement but a testament to freedom.

Beyond the world of high-end fashion, Brunello Cucinelli’s brand reflects his personal philosophy. The brand stands as an Italian luxury icon, grounded in a robust ethical framework. Each facet of the brand, from the meticulous crafting of fine cashmere to the rejuvenation of a historic hamlet, demonstrates a commitment to excellence, environmental stewardship, and the value of human dignity. Like Loro Piana, the brand is subtle in the use of its logo, preferring to let the superior quality of its craftsmanship define its identity.

I acquired many more pieces of the brand over the years. Unfortunately, the jackets with elbow pads never came back after 2010. The company was publicly listed in 2012, pushing the brands exposure to more markets globally.

I still wear my Cucinelli jackets, shirts, and chinos. However, I have never been able to find more superfine blue shirts made of cotton and cashmere again, and many of the staff draw a blank when I ask about a jacket with elbow pads. My request to loosen the buttons on the cuff of the jacket, I only raise when I am in Cannes, where I can still get the same unique bespoke Brunello Cucinelli experience, I encountered in 2007.